here's your sign to drink more orange wine

plus, insights from Chicago beverage director Kyle Davidson

Happy Saturday, beloved.

This Monday, October 6, is National Orange Wine Day. And if you’re new here, then you should know that I’m a HUGE fan of skin-contact wine. Almost five years to the date, I created this Instagram video expressing my deep reverence for SKINS, an orange wine that I still stan to this day by Paso Robles-based winery Field Recordings :

In September 2022, I visited Chateau L’Hospitalet – a beautiful wine resort in Narbonne, France. During an evening spent at L’Hospitalet Beach, my fellow travelers and I not only had the chance to dine with Gerard Betrand himself, but we also sipped on Orange Gold, an organic wine made from seven white wine grape varietals: Chardonnay, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Marsanne, Mauzac, Muscat, and Clairette. It also pays homage to orange wines made in the country of Georgia over 4500 years ago.

PHOTO BY GILBERT BAGES

So, what is skin contact?

Also known as maceration, skin-contact refers to a technique (used in both red and white winemaking) in which juice crushed from wine grapes marinates for a period of time with the grape skins.

For red wine, rosé is produced, and for white wine, orange wine is created.

If you’re a visual learner, here’s a cute diagram courtesy of Verovino, breaking down the process:

COURTESY OF VEROVINO.

Recently, I spoke with Kyle Davidson, beverage director of the Chicago’s Day Off Group–which includes restaurants Rose Mary and il Carciofo.

During our conversation, he shared his process for curating the wine programs at both restaurants, and what guests should look for specifically when it comes to orange wine, and where in Chicago he likes to grab a great glass of wine.

CC: For guests unfamiliar with the concept of orange wine, how do you go about introducing them to it and helping them make that distinction between a conventional white wine?

KD: I often tell people that it's just making white wine as you would make a red wine. I think people are okay with a little bit of tannin in red wine, or a certain flavor profile, but it can be a bit jarring if you’re not accustomed to it when you want something cold to start the meal. And then there is a range. We have some orange wines that are well-extracted, giving a lot of color and tannic grip. And some are just a kiss of skin contact, giving more of the acidity and body characteristics of a traditional white wine. But it’s all about the food, right? So really, the goal is to get the right glass and the right plate in front of people, and it usually works out.

CC: What’s your thought process when it came to developing the wine programs at both restaurants?

KD: I’m an easy-going beverage director. I like things that taste great, and I think [Chef] Joe’s the same way. So it was easy to collaborate with him on what is delicious. And in the Chicago market, we have access to a variety. So conceptually, we started with indigenous (Croatian and Italian) pairings and expanded from there. We wanted to ensure we had the appropriate offerings for everybody, food and beverage, but that they all work well together.

CC: When it comes to choosing orange wines for the menu, are certain regions that you’ve gravitated toward mostly, or is it just like orange wines from everywhere, try them all?

KD: The nice thing about the orange wines is that they really do represent the geographical bridge between Italy and Croatia. Northern Italy, Slovenia, and partially into Croatia–all of these places are considered a home base for Orange wine. But what I love most about it is its versatility. Whether you choose a lighter style to start a meal or something richer to finish, orange wine can still work with everything you have going on.

CC: Why do you think orange wine deserves a bigger place in American wine culture?

KD: Because it is cool and it goes with all types of food. It has a different flavor profile and more depth than a typical glass of wine. And look–I don’t expect everyone to plop into every restaurant and say, ‘give me whatever you think is cool.’ But if there’s any desire for exploration, I would recommend an orange wine and say that

CC: Final question: if somebody wanted to drink like you in Chicago, wine or cocktail, where are you going for your favorite things?

KD: There are so many good spots in Chicago. I go to Webster’s [Wine Bar] in Logan Square a lot, but there is also Outside Voices in Logan Square and Rootstock in Humboldt. I also really enjoyed the wine selections at avec in the West Loop.

KYLE’S RECOMMENDATIONS:

• COS ‘RAMI’ from Sicily and Reia Rebula from Slovenia

• Why? “Both have the acidity and spectrum of fruit profile to work with lighter, juicier summer flavors, as well as the tannin structure and finish to stand up to a protein, a richer brown butter sauce, or a baking spice combination.”

And my recommendations :

• ‘SKINS’ by Field Recordings

• Mianu Orange Wine by Regina King

• ‘Arancino’ by Caruso e Minini

• ‘Orange Gold’ by Gerard Betrand

• ‘Sun Goddess Pinot Grigio Ramato Orange Wine’ by Mary J. Blige

• Gulp / Hablo Orange

• Costador Metamorphika Macabeu Orange
  

I hope you have a wonderful weekend. —cc

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Kelly, Sarah, Sarah, Elaine, Jessicka, Teresa – thank you so much for your patronage and support!